The Capital Restaurant, London

The Capital Hotel has changed its chef a while ago, and now the kitchen is turning out much more classical simple dishes, which Eric Chavot probably wouldn’t have served. A while ago I decided to head over there for dinner, which proved to be remarkably good as you shall see.

The wine list is very refreshing here: Mark-ups on wines that are bought in at £100 or more are minimal, and the rest is very fairly priced too. Raymond Boulard’s Petrea costs a mere £56, until recently they had a 2000 Ramonet Chassagne “Vergers” for a very fair £89, and at the top end of the range, there was a nice selection of Leroy wines: 2000 Echezeaux cost no more than a bottle can cost you in an auction, around £450. We decided to drink a bottle of the brilliant 2005 Kistler Dutton Ranch, which must still count as one of the top Californian Chardonnays. It is a great wine, concentrated, balanced, very floral and fruity on the nose, and not as heavy or over-oaked as some other wines of that area. A complete winner.

To start us off, a rabbit tart was served with a little pepper jus was served. It was tasty, light and well made, not really exciting, but hard to criticise. Good.

Up next came a very well made terrine of pork, duck, foie gras and pistachios. Served with some kind of jelly and a few marinated micro-shoots, it was just what it said it would be. The flavours were all there, and worked well together. A really good terrine, for the rather attractive price of £14. That’s the way we like it. Very good.

My main course was a lobster Thermidor, slightly more pricey than the terrine (£34). However, it was pretty much a whole Scottish lobster on a plate. If not served in the head, or anything like that it was a very good plate of food nonetheless. The lobster was perfectly cooked, and had great texture, the creamy sauce was just gratinated, and the spinach was rather agreeable too. I was surprised by the level of the cooking here, as product quality, execution and presentation were all of a high order. Very good.

As a dessert, we had a roasted pineapple with some kind of crème brulee inside. What the sorbet on top was made out of, I didn’t write down, but it was a good dessert. Maybe a tad too sweet for my taste, but nonetheless very well done. Good.

Overall it was a very enjoyable evening. From the drink in the cosy bar to the food, the great wine and perfect service, everything was far better than I had hoped it would be. I also found the pricing incredibly reasonable on the whole, given the hotel’s status. For a good classical meal, with great wines on the side, this is certainly a safe haven.

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2 Réponses to “The Capital Restaurant, London”

  1. amrx Says:

    I was stranded in London for 8 days last month because of the
    volcanic ash flight ban. I did try a few restaurants you had written about. Most notable were The Square and Greenhouse.

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